When I was in Yosemite last year, I used Scott's Metolius cams any time that I had a small crack that I was a little unsure of. I have a full set of Black Diamond cams, but the Metolius ones go in and out like butter, and I love how they feel. When we got a special offer through our pro deals, I couldn't pass up adding some new ones to my own rack. I got all small sizes- small fingers (fingerlocks for me) through rattly fingers and thin hands.
See how the lobes of the cam are just a little bigger than my fingers? That means when I pull them down to stick in a crack, they'll be perfect for finger-size cracks for me. This is the size that I need to feel super secure in the gear I place, especially as I work the top half of Oz up on Palisade. The entire last 65 feet is sequential finger crack, and requires the use of small gear. At 5.12b, the whole route is going to push me to my absolute limit, both physically and mentally, so anything that can help my mental game is perfect.
In the midst of all this, I started the Laurel beret for my friend that gave me her old 3G iPhone. I'm making it out of a pretty lavender in the Plymouth Merino Superwash, and it's just busy enough to keep me occupied. It's a good knit as I start to make my way through Downton Abbey on Netflix.
After a full day at my girl's first dance competition of the year, I'm excited for a night under a blanket surrounded by kittens, knitting, and a mug of hot tea. It's been alternating between drizzling and snowing all day with wind, so warmth and snuggling is a must.
Sometimes these gross spring evenings are the best for reminding me to slow down and relax once in awhile. :)
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